Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Gruyères and Broc, Switzerland

Using Montreux as a base, we took a day trip to the medieval town of Gruyères and to the town of Broc.  Broc and Gruyères are situated in the heart of the Alpine foothills of Fribourg.  The train ride was very scenic as it took us along Lake Geneva and then through the mountains and countryside.

Gruyères
Both David and I have been to Gruyères before, but many years ago before we met each other.  We both have very fond memories from our separate visits there and wanted to go back again.  We were happy to see that nothing much has changed and it is still as charming as we both remember.  














Chateau de Gruyères
At the top end of the medieval town of Gruyères sits Chateau de Gruyères.  This beautiful castle was constructed around 1270 and served as the seat of the courts of Gruyères.  In 1938 the Canton of Fribourg took over the castle and founded the present museum.  














La Maison Du Gruyère
Gruyères is best known for its cheese and we visited La Maison Du Gruyère to watch how they make the "Gruyère AOP" cheese.  This particular dairy is equipped with 4 x 4800 litre vats and a cellar where 7000 wheels can ripen.  The master cheese makers at this facility produce up to 48 wheels of cheese per day.  

Everything starts when the farmers deliver fresh high-quality milk twice a day, from cows that are fed exclusively on fresh grass in the summer and natural silage-free fodder without any additives in the winter.  

In the large copper vats, the milk from the morning's milking is added to that from the previous evening's milking.  Lactic acid bacteria is then added to mature the milk and rennet is added to cause the milk to coagulate.  The curd is separated into "grains" using large rakes called cheese harps.  The vat content is slowly heated for 40-45 minutes to 57ºC.  The cheese "grains" are then packed into moulds.  The cheese is identified with a casein identification mark (contains the date the cheese was made, the number of the wheel and the cheese dairy).  Traceability is very important in the Gruyère AOP production and this is why all the wheels are marked.  

The cheese is then pressed for a period of 20 hours. After this period is over, the cheese maker removes the wheels from the press and places them in a salt water bath for 24 hours.  The cheese wheels then get stored in a cellar for three months.  The cheese maker turns and rubs the wheels almost daily in order for a nice rind to develop, which protects the wheels.  After three months of storage, the wheels are transported to a ripening cellar where they complete their slow maturation for 5-18 months at a temperature of 15ºC and humidity of 90%.  During this phase, the cheese wheels are regularly turned and rubbed with a salt water solution.  After five months the cheese wheels are inspected by a neutral commission to determine if the quality standards have been met and only then may the cheese wheels be officially given the name "Le Gruyère AOP".  

Cheese that has been matured for 6-9 months is aromatic, smooth and mild; cheese that has been aged for 10 months is full bodied and cheese that has been aged for up to 18 months has a very strong flavour.  That said there is something for everyone who loves cheese.
















Meringues
Besides cheese, Gruyères is also known for its feather-light meringues and cream.  We stopped at one of the village cafés to enjoy this treat.  



Broc
Broc is situated about half an hour by train from Gruyères and visitors flock to this small town to visit  Maison Cailler of Switzerland.  Cailler has been in business since 1825 and it is one of Switzerland's oldest chocolate makers.  Today it is part of the Nestlé group.

The minute we stepped off the train we were greeted by the smell of chocolate!  It was quite unexpected considering the factory was about a eight minute walk from the train station.  Our intension was to visit the factory and do the chocolate tour that they offer.  However when we arrived that afternoon after our visit to Gruyères it was extremely busy and there was a two hour wait to take the next available tour.  We didn't want to hang around for two hours, so we decided to skip the tour.    













Gruyères to Montreux
After our short visit to Broc, we took the train back to Gruyères and then back to Montreux.  It was a great day trip!















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