Saturday 31 December 2011

Taroko National Park, Taiwan

We took a five day trip between Christmas and New Year to Taiwan.  Taiwan is an island located off the southeast coast of China.  It is separated from the mainland by the 160 km wide Taiwan Strait.  For centuries Taiwan was referred to as Ihla Formosa or Beautiful Isle.  
While David had not been to Taiwan before, I (Sam) visited over 25 years ago on a student tour.  While I have some happy memories from my time spent in Taiwan (I went with a great group of people including my close friend Yolanda), I also have some bad memories about the hygiene and sanitary conditions.  It also didn't help that we stayed in old student dormitories, so the living conditions were equally as nightmarish.  That said, much has changed since I was last in Taiwan and it was nice to see the modern changes, while also accepting that some things have not changed, especially in the more rural areas. 

We flew to Taipei and started our trip with a two hour train ride to the city of Hualien on the east coast of Taiwan.  The main purpose of our visit to Hualien was to visit Taiwan's top tourist attraction, the Taroko National Park.  





Hotel Bayview
During our short stay in the coastal city of Hualien, we stayed at a lovely quaint hotel right on the ocean called the Hotel Bayview.  The hotel itself is in an unusual location, with the ocean on the one side and then homes, small businesses and even an air force base in the nearby vicinity.  It was quite a contrast to hear the waves and the ocean, and then all of a sudden the loud noise from a fighter jet taking off!
We were very surprised to learn that this hotel has some ties to Canada - the manager of the hotel, who also happens to be the owner's son (it is a family run business), spent some time studying and working in Toronto.....small world.












Taroko National Park and Taroko Gorge
The Taroko National Park covers an area of over 296,000 acres.  It is 90% mountainous and provides a sanctuary for half the island's plant and animal species.  The teal-coloured Liwu River cuts through the centre of the National Park, forging deep valleys and ravines before emptying into the sea.  In one section it forms the Taroko Gorge, an 18 km marble-walled canyon that many consider a scenic wonder. We hired a driver for the day and Andy drove us through the breathtaking gorge, where we stopped at various places of interest along the way.   







Shakadang Bridge and Trail
Our first stop was at the Shakadang Bridge where Andy suggested we do the 4.4 km walk along the Shakadang River as it winds through the marble canyons.  In order to access the path, we had to descend eight flights of stairs from the bridge.  The path itself was flat and the walk was well worth the effort, because the scenery along the path was breathtaking.  


















Eternal Spring Shrine
The Eternal Spring Shrine (also known as Changchun Shrine) is perched on the side of a cliff overlooking the Liwu River.  This beautiful shrine with a gushing spring, is dedicated to the workers who lost their lives during the construction of the Central Cross-Island Highway.  The Central Cross-Island Highway is one of three highways that connects the West coast to the East coast and it runs through the Taroko National Park.
Further up on the mountain is the Changuang Temple, a Zen Monastery that can also be seen from the road, but which is much harder to get to as it requires a strenuous hike up the steep mountain.  














Sipan Dam
We made a quick stop at Sipan Dam which is in the heart of the Taroko Gorge.  Water from this dam is used to generate power.



Swallow Grotto
Swallow Grotto is the section of the Taroko Gorge that offers towering views of the gorge.  It is also one of the narrowest sections of the gorge 















Jinheng Bridge
This bridge is famous for it view of "Indian Chief Rock", a natural formation that resembles the head of a North American Indian Chief (it can be seen in the middle of the second photo or at the bottom right hand corner of the third photo).  This bridge was named after an engineer who was killed by a rock slide during an inspection of the area.












Yue Fei Pavilion
The Yue Fei Pavilion was built during the construction of the Central Cross-Island Highway.  We made  a stop here to view the Yue Fei Pavilion Waterfall, which unfortunately was sparse due to low rainfall.



 Lushui Trail
This 2 km trail runs above the highway, along a cliff and offers fantastic views of the Liwu River.  It was quite a walk to get to the actual trail, but once there the terrain was pretty flat.  The only scary part was a section of the trail that was through a 100 feet/30 meter tunnel, part of which was pitch dark.  The information board basically said that after a turn visitors will see the natural light and that flashlights were recommended.  Needless to say, we had no flashlight.  It was so dark in the middle of this tunnel that we had to use our camera's flash to see where we were going.  It was pretty scary because after we entered the tunnel we couldn't see anything, we knew there was a turn but had no idea where or in what direction, so we basically had to feel our way through.  Fortunately we made it to the other end safely.  











Wunshan Hot Spring
Wunshan Hot Spring is one of Taiwan's natural outdoor hot springs in the Taroko National Park.  To access the grotto and hot spring, we had to descend numerous stairs, cross a suspension bridge to get to the other side of the gorge and then descend another steep flight of stairs.  When we got to the hot spring, we found a few locals soaking in the hot sulphurous water.  Some people had even climbed over the safety barrier and were one the edge of the river which didn't look too safe.   After taking photos of the grotto and surrounding area, we retraced our steps back to the entrance.   


















Tianxiang 
The last stop for the day was at Tianxiang, a recreational area in the Taroko National Park with a few hotels, hostels, a youth activity centre, a Catholic church and a Presbyterian church.  Tianxiang is where the Dasha River and the Taci Jill River converge to become the Liwu River.  It is also where we got a glimpse of the tall white Guanyin Statue perched at the edge of the mountain and the 7-story Tian Feng Pagoda.  After our visit to Tianxiang, Andy drove us back to Hualien where we caught the train back to Taipei.