Tuesday 5 July 2016

Noboribetsu, Japan

At the beginning of July we took a five day trip to Hokkaido.  We were very excited about this trip, because it was our first visit to northern Japan.  We flew to Sapporo, rented a car and then drove to various places of interest.  Our first stop was Noboribetsu in the southern part of Hokkaido along the coast.  This region is known for its onsens/hot springs



Kashoutei Hanaya Ryokan
We decided to stay at a traditional Ryokan (Japanese inn) to have a true Japanese experience.   This ryokan that we stayed at had a very peaceful setting and the staff were very attentive.  It turned out to be an amazing experience.






The entrance to the ryokan and check-in desk.  Shoes are not allowed to be worn in the ryokan, so we were required to leave our shoes with the attendant before even stepping onto the carpet in the entrance.




Our room with tatami mats and a low table and leg-less chairs.  The only western furniture in our room were two western chairs and a small table in the corner.   Otherwise we sat on floor to eat our meals and we also slept on the floor.  Shortly after we got to our room, a hostess arrived with matcha tea and traditional Japanese sweets (wagashi).
Our hostess also gave us traditional yukata (casual version of a kimono) to wear around the ryokan.  





Kaiseki Dinner: our meals were part of the package and included both a kaiseki dinner (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner) and breakfast the following morning.  After a relaxing soak in the onsen, we enjoyed the amazing kaiseki dinner that consisted of many small plates of different food and all exquisitely prepared.  Although some of the food was a little foreign to us, it was all really tasty and we enjoyed the experience.

















After dinner, our eating table and chairs were put on the side and our beds were made up for the evening.  We slept on thin mattresses on the tatami mats on floor.



Breakfast: we were served a traditional Japanese breakfast that included white rice, miso soup, raw fish, pickles, bacon, eggs and tea.




Bathing in the public onset (hot spring): this was a new and interesting experience for both of us.  There are strict rules when it comes to bathing in a public onsen and we had to educate ourselves before venturing off to soak in the public bath (fortunately a sheet with all the rules was given to us when we arrived).  The rules included no swimsuits, no dunking towels or any cloths in the bath, washing your hair and body thoroughly before getting into the bath, no jumping into the bath and being respectful to other bathers.
Public onsens are separated; one for women (red entrance) and one for men (green entrance).  The onsen at this ryokan was nice in that it had an indoor onsen and also an outdoor onsen for each of the genders.
It is not for the shy, because you have to literally take all your clothes off, go into the common washing area where you sit on small stools and wash your hair and body thoroughly before you can go into the actual bath naked.   That said, everyone was very respectful and discreet, so the experience was not as uncomfortable as expected.  
The actual water itself was amazing to soak in (this natural spring water had a strong sulphur smell and was milky-white in colour).  It was very relaxing and was wonderful for the body and mind.







Gokuraku-dori
This is the main shopping street in Noboribetsu lined with souvenir shops and restaurants.









Jigokudani (Hell Valley)
Jigokudani, aka Hell Valley is a short distance from the main shopping street in Noboribetsu.  At the entrance, visitors are welcomed by the Blue parent and child demons 
Hell Valley was created 20,000 years ago when Mount Kuttara erupted.  The valley has a diameter of 450 meters that encompasses a 11 hectare area.  It was given the name Jigokudani (Hell Valley) because of the numerous steaming geysers, bubbling springs and blowholes.  These natural spring waters, which are high in sulphur are piped to many of the hotels and ryokans that surround this area.  


















Hiyoriyama View Point
The mountain in front of this viewpoint was formed from lava that was pushed up from underground and hardened.  Instead of being at the summit, the crater is the hot water marsh itself.  It is said that smoke from the erupting volcano can be seen from the Pacific ocean and was used to forecast the weather at sea.





Mount Hiyori and Oyunuma
Mount Hiyori is an active volcano and Oyunuma is a lake that was formed from an explosion crater of Mt. Kuttara.  Oyunuma is one of the world's rarest and largest hot water lakes.  At the bottom of the lake is a gushing sulfur spring with a temperature at about 130 degrees Celsius, which makes the surface of the lake between 40-50 degrees Celsius.  We were able to run our hands in the water and it was amazing how hot it is.