Belfast Black Cab Tour, Northern Ireland, UK

Taking one of Belfast's Famous Black Cab Tours was high on our list of things-to-do.  Not knowing too much about the history of the conflict in Belfast and Northern Ireland, we really wanted to get a better understanding.  

Belfast dates back to the early 17th century and conflict between the Catholics and Protestants can be traced back to as early as the mid-1600's.  However, the most recent conflict in Northern Ireland took place from 1969 to the late 1990's.  The events that occurred during this time are often referred to as "the Troubles".  The Troubles centred around Northern Ireland's constitutional status and also the relationship between the mostly Protestant Unionists (also known as Loyalists, loyal to Britain) and Catholic Nationalists (also known as Republicans, loyal to Ireland).  The conflict not only had a political undercurrent, but also a paramilitary one, with bombings, assassinations and street violence a common occurrence.  

Our driver and tour guide Paddy, picked us up from our hotel in his black cab.  Before he started the tour, he gave us an overview of where we would be going and what we would be seeing over the next two hours.  He gave us a brief history of the conflict, but filled in more of the details during the rest of our tour.   Paddy was a great guide who explained everything in a unbiased way, and he also encouraged us to ask questions to get the most out of the tour.  The tour was extremely interesting and informative, and it definitely gave us better insight into the conflict and what life must have been like during those challenging times.  The good thing is that there is peace in Belfast and Northern Ireland today.  However, sporadic incidents have and continue to occur (especially during significant anniversaries), but for the most part it would appear that the majority of people want peace.

Shankhill Road Community

The first stop on our tour was at an area known as Shankhill.  Shankhill is located just north of the city and it is a predominantly Protestant (Loyalist) working-class area.  It was here that we got our first look at some of the many murals that are scattered all over Belfast.  Each mural tells a story and Paddy did a great job of explaining some of the more significant ones.  He also showed us the murals of some of the Loyalists who died during the conflict and gave us some history as to the part each played in the conflict We got to walk around this neighbourhood to view the murals and we have to say that these murals really brought the history to life.   Being in a loyalist area, it was not surprising to see many Union Jacks on the murals.  One interesting thing to note is that some of these murals are being replaced by new murals that depict the current state of affairs.  A good sign, considering some of the older murals encourage violence and taking up arms. 

Belfast's Infamous Peaceline

Since the onset of the Troubles in 1969, many Catholic (Nationalist) and Protestant (Loyalist) communities throughout Northern Ireland have been divided by peace walls (also called "peacelines").    These large steel and stone constructions were built at mostly urban interface areas.  They were designed to protect neighbourhoods from attacks, and provide residents with a sense of peace and protection.  Some of these walls have gates that allow passage during the day, but are closed at night.
The most prominent of these peacelines in Belfast is at Cupar Way.  This wall separates the Shankhill Road area (Protestant) from the Falls Road area (Catholic).  The photos below were taken at Cupar Way on the Protestant side.  The public has access to these murals and we added our names to the wall (joining Bill Clinton and the Dalai Lama amongst others).  We had no idea these walls existed or how large and long some of them are.  Another reminder of the history and past conflict.  

Bombay Street and the Clonard Republican Martyrs Memorial Garden
After our visit to the peaceline on Cupar Way, we drove through one of the gates to Bombay Street on the other side of the wall (to the Catholic side).  Bombay Street is significant, because it was the hardest hit during the riots in August 1969.  Many see these riots as the start of the Troubles and what would turn out to be a 30 year conflict. 

Leading up to August 15th 1969, the date which marks the first British Army's deployment in Belfast, the city was rocketed by intense rioting.  There had been violence up to that point, brought on by the civil rights movement which demanded an end to government discrimination against Irish Catholics and nationalists.  The riots in August 1969 brought everything to a head and many Catholic homes and businesses were burnt down.  

On Bombay Street, the Clonard Republican Martyrs Memorial Garden has been established to remember some of the Catholics who lost their lives during the riots.  Another reminder of the conflict is that all the homes that back up to this wall have cages protecting the buildings and gardens from missiles that are thrown over the peace wall (an occurrence that happens less these days since the Belfast Good Friday Agreement was signed back in 1998).  Being on the Nationalists side, it was not surprising to see many green, white and orange Irish flags. 

Offices of Sinn Fein and Falls Road
Next stop was at Sinn Fein's offices.  Sinn Fein is the left-wing, Irish Republican political party in Northern Ireland.  Sinn Fein was considered to be the political arm of the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and its main goal has been to end British rule of Northern Ireland.  Falls road is the main road that runs through this Catholic area, with the most significant mural being the one of hunger striker Bobby Sands.

Solidarity Wall on Falls Road
The last stop on our tour was at the Solidarity Wall on Falls Road.  This wall shows a collection of murals expressing the Republican sympathies with the Palestinians and Kurds amongst others.  Other murals on this wall express equal rights for all, an end to racism, human rights and dignity for all, freedom for all and peace.

The Divis Tower

The apartment building situated on the right hand side of the photograph below, was a very prominent building during the Troubles.  It was used as an observation point by the British Army, and it was only demilitarised in the last few years.  

Police Stations in Belfast
Due to the past history of violence and bombings, Belfast's police stations are well protected and guarded. All the police stations that we passed were secured like prisons with high walls and fencing, caged buildings and steel gates.